{"id":57763,"title":"Guide: Cyclocross dismounts","description":"How to master the key cyclocross skill of dismounting with our step-by-step guide.","content":"

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Published in<\/strong>: CYCLOCROSS<\/strong><\/a><\/p>

After cornering, dismounting and remounting are the most important cyclocross skills to learn. In this article, we provide a step-by-step guide to perfecting cyclocross dismounts.<\/p>

We\u2019ll address the challenge of cyclocross remounts in a future article.<\/p>

\"FormerThroughout this article, I\u2019ll assume you dismount on the left-hand side of your cross bike. If you dismount on the right, swap all references to right hands, feet, etc. to left, and vice versa.<\/p>

<\/p>

Why you need to perfect dismounts<\/h2>

If you race cyclocross, you\u2019ll inevitably need to dismount at some point. Perfect this skill enough, and you can occasionally use it to your tactical advantage.<\/p>

It\u2019s an essential skill<\/h3>

The ability to execute a cyclocross dismount quickly, smoothly and consistently is an important skill to possess if you\u2019re keen to make your mark at the front end of a race. Even if your ambitions are more modest, it\u2019s something you need to master to a certain degree.<\/p>

Almost all cyclocross races require at least one dismount per lap. In certain conditions, you may need to dismount several times a lap. If your technique is poor, you\u2019ll be handing an advantage to your more skilful competitors.<\/p>

If you\u2019re really poor at dismounting, you might spend your race lying in the mud. It might generate a few cheers from the spectators, but it won\u2019t do your pride or ego much good.<\/p>

Use it as a tactic<\/h3>

If you\u2019re very proficient at dismounting, you can sometimes use it to your tactical advantage. Let\u2019s assume you\u2019re on the last lap of a race and you\u2019re struggling to pass a rival who is stubbornly difficult to overtake.<\/p>

There\u2019s a slow, slippery corner that you\u2019ve both had to ride right around the outside because it\u2019s the only place that offers grip. As you approach the corner, you dismount swiftly and swing your bike around the inside, enabling you to overtake.<\/p>

It\u2019s not quicker, but as long as you hop back on in front of your rival on the racing line, they won\u2019t be able to regain their place.<\/p>

<\/p>

Momentum is key<\/h2>

The most important consideration for dismounts is maintaining momentum.<\/p>

As with every obstacle you\u2019ll encounter in cyclocross, such as corners, sets of planks, sand traps or banks, it\u2019s not the speed with which you approach the obstacle that matters. It\u2019s not even the speed with which you navigate the obstacle, nor the speed at which you exit the obstacle.<\/p>

All that matters is the time taken from when you start to slow down for the obstacle until you complete it and start to slow down for the next. If you race into a dismount at too high a speed for your skill level, there\u2019s a good chance you\u2019ll make a hash of it, and actually take longer overall.<\/p>

Maintaining momentum and never coming to a stop is the key criteria of success for dismounts. If, for example, you\u2019re riding up a steep hill and have to dismount and come to a stop, then you\u2019ve lost momentum and lost time.<\/p>

It\u2019s always better to dismount too soon and maintain some forward motion than dismount too late and come to a complete halt. A really good demonstration was provided by Mathieu van der Poel and Wout van Aert at Koksijde.<\/p>

Van der Poel was leading, and every lap he dismounted just before the top of a sandy climb. He\u2019d push his bike the last few metres over the top, then swiftly remount.<\/p>

By contrast, Van Aert was attempting to ride all the way to the top. I recall he did manage it on one lap, but on the others he ground to a halt, lost momentum and slipped time to Mathieu every time.<\/p>

<\/p>

Handbag Dismount<\/h2>

So called because the bike lift is similar to lifting a handbag, the\u00a0Handbag Dismount<\/em>\u00a0is often used when approaching a set of planks (or hurdles, as they are also known).<\/p>

Remember that I\u2019m assuming you will dismount on the left of your bike.<\/em><\/p>

When it\u2019s used<\/h3>

The Shoulder Dismount<\/em> is ideal where a quick dismount is required, followed by a short section of running. Due to the way the bike is held after dismounting, it\u2019s not best suited to long sections of running.<\/p>

One of the most common places to see the Handbag Dismount<\/em> in use is approaching a pair of hurdles. The rider will quickly dismount just before the hurdles, carry their bike over them and then jump back on again.<\/p>

How to do it<\/h3>

0. Reduce speed, change gear and stop pedalling<\/strong><\/p>

Before commencing the manoeuvre, reduce your bike speed if necessary to a pace you feel comfortable with and, if required, change gear to the one you want to use when you remount. Stop pedalling with your left crank at its lowest point.<\/p>

\"CyclocrossSwing the right leg over the saddle<\/em><\/p>

1. Swing the right leg over the saddle<\/strong><\/p>

With both hands on top of the brake levers, swing your right leg over the saddle and the back of the bike.<\/p>

Bring your leg to rest with your right foot to the left of your left foot so your right knee is just behind the back of the left one.<\/p>

\"Cyclocross Your right knee is just behind the back of the left one<\/em><\/p>

Lean in to the middle of the bike so that your right hip is pushed up against the side of the saddle. This is to counteract the weight that has shifted from your right leg onto your left. You can also exert some control over the bike\u2019s direction and balance by leaning more or less against the saddle.<\/p>

\"CyclocrossGrip the top tube with the right hand<\/em><\/p>

2. Grip the top tube with the right hand<\/strong><\/p>

Once you have that feeling of balance, move your right hand from the brake lever onto the top of the top tube.<\/p>

3. Coast if necessary<\/strong><\/p>

If you\u2019ve yet to reach the point where you plan to dismount, you can coast in this position unless it\u2019s uphill or very muddy, in which case your bike will grind to a halt.<\/p>

4. Unclip the left foot and hop off<\/strong><\/p>

Now twist your left foot as usual to unclip, then hop off the bike and land on your feet. Use the weight you are placing through your arms to cushion your landing.<\/p>

5. Lift and run<\/strong><\/p>

As soon as you hit the ground and have taken the minimum number of steps, lift the bike vertically by bending your arms. Now run!<\/p>

Considerations<\/h3>

Where should I dismount?<\/strong><\/p>

If you watch the professionals in action, you\u2019ll note that they take just one or maybe two steps from the point of dismounting before lifting the bike over the obstacle. They come into the dismount incredibly quickly too.<\/p>

They have many years\u2019 experience and have the time to dedicate to honing their skills. Where you dismount, the point at which you start to dismount and the speed you\u2019re travelling at are largely dictated by your degree of skill.<\/p>

It\u2019s better to come into a dismount a bit more slowly and dismount just a bit too early, rather than failing to dismount in time and whacking your front wheel into an immovable plank. This is definitely a skill that benefits from practice.<\/p>

Try speeding up your dismount in training sessions, not during a race.<\/p>

\"CyclocrossThe correct angle of the bike after a Handbag Dismount<\/em><\/p>

Where do I hold the top tube?<\/strong><\/p>

You'll want to hold the top tube much closer to the saddle than the headset. The aim is that when you lift the bike, both wheels will be about equal height above the ground.<\/p>

Most people find that the front wheel is higher off the ground than the rear. This helps because you're less likely to catch the front wheel on a plank.<\/p>

If you catch the back wheel, it won't matter so much, although it\u2019s preferable to avoid either wheel making contact.<\/p>

How high should I lift the bike?<\/strong><\/p>

Only lift the bike as high as you need to either clear an obstacle, such as a plank, or to be able to run with it.<\/p>

Lifting it any higher wastes energy and tires your arms more quickly. If you\u2019re traversing a set of hurdles, you can lower your bike in between them.<\/p>

Advanced techniques<\/h3>

\"CyclocrossStep-through technique<\/em><\/p>

Step-through<\/strong><\/p>

In the technique explained above, at step 1, it describes placing the right foot behind and to the left of the left foot. An alternative approach, known as the Step-through<\/em>, is described below.<\/p>

After swinging your right leg over the saddle, tuck your right foot between the left leg and the left hand crank. This places your right foot to the right of the left and ahead of it.<\/p>

If you\u2019re a right-leading runner (your stride starts with your right foot first), then this is a more natural way to start running.<\/p>

I\u2019ve noticed that it\u2019s infrequently used by professional cyclocross riders these days. A noticeable adherent of the Step-through<\/em> technique is eight-time UCI Cyclo-Cross World Champion Marianne Vos.<\/p>

It\u2019s certainly worth trying to see which suits you better. In the book <\/em>Developing Cyclo-Cross Techniques<\/em><\/strong><\/a> by Mark Adams and Mark Wyer, they describe three different approaches that you can try.<\/p>

Coasting<\/strong><\/p>

The skill of coasting in the ready-to-dismount position is a useful one to acquire. You may need to coast for some distance at speed with your right hand holding the top tube. It\u2019s not a natural position.<\/p>

Start by coasting along a flat piece of ground. Gradually increase the speed. As your confidence improves, swing the right leg over the saddle, grip the top tube with your right hand and coast. Before you come to a complete halt, and without dismounting, move your right hand back to the top of the brake lever and swing your right leg back to its normal position.<\/p>

Pedal for a bit until you\u2019ve built up speed, then repeat the exercise.<\/p>

Next, try weaving in and out of cones whilst your right hand is on the top tube. Finally, once you feel really comfortable with this skill, coast downhill. At the bottom, hop off, complete a 180-degree turn and run back up the hill. Alternate between left and right turns at the bottom.<\/p>

Final tip - do this on soft ground so that when you fall off it doesn\u2019t hurt.<\/p>

<\/p>

Shoulder Dismount<\/h2>

The Shoulder Dismount<\/em> is best used when you expect to run with the bike for an extended period, as it\u2019s much easier to run with the bike on the shoulder.<\/p>

Remember that I\u2019m assuming you will dismount on the left of your bike.<\/em><\/p>

When it\u2019s used<\/h3>

The Shoulder Dismount<\/em> is normally used where a rider is expecting to run for a longer section, compared to the Handbag Dismount<\/em>, or where the rider has to run uphill, and it\u2019s advantageous to run with the bike on the shoulder.<\/p>

How to do it<\/h3>

0. Reduce speed, change gear and stop pedalling<\/strong><\/p>

This is identical to step 0 of the Handbag Dismount<\/em>.<\/p>

1. Swing the right leg over the saddle<\/strong><\/p>

This is identical to step 1 of the Handbag Dismount<\/em>.<\/p>

2. Keep the right hand on the brake lever<\/strong><\/p>

This is the first difference from the Handbag Dismount.<\/em><\/p>

3. Coast if necessary<\/strong><\/p>

This is identical to step 3 of the Handbag Dismount<\/em>, except you will be coasting with both hands on the brake levers.<\/p>

4. Unclip the left foot and hop off<\/strong><\/p>

Now twist your left foot as usual to unclip, then hop off the bike and land on your feet. Use the weight you are placing through your arms to cushion your landing.<\/p>

The difference here is that when you hop off, both hands are still on the brake lever hoods.<\/p>

5. Lift<\/strong><\/p>

As soon as you hit the ground and have taken the minimum number of steps, lift the bike with your left hand on the brake lever and your right hand using either:<\/p>

\"CyclocrossTop tube lift<\/em><\/p>