{"id":16893,"title":"Chasing the Cobbles","description":"We sample the cobbles and beer whilst chasing the peloton at the opening spring cycling classics of Omloop Het Nieuwslblad and Kuurne Brussels Kuurne.","content":"

From cobbles to cross - cycling's true heart<\/em><\/strong><\/p>

Published in<\/strong>: <\/span>COBBLES & CLASSICS<\/strong><\/a><\/p>

We sample the cobbles and beer whilst chasing the peloton at the opening spring cycling classics of Omloop Het Nieuwsblad and Kuurne Brussels Kuurne.<\/p>

\"ReachingReaching the top of the Paterberg. Image: Rijden<\/em><\/p>

At some point during the Covid lockdown, I made a commitment. As soon as I could, I'd sail forth to Belgium and watch some classic Flemish races. As it transpired, the easing of restrictions enabled me to book a long weekend in Oudenaarde to coincide with season openers Omloop Het Nieuwsblad and Kuurne Brussel Kuurne.<\/p>

\"Oudenaarde.Oudenaarde. Image: Rijden<\/em><\/p>

I'd already been over to race and watch at Ardooie<\/a> in October but that was a fleeting visit limited by Covid restrictions to a maximum of 48 hours. My slight nervousness at the prospect of the double impact of Brexit and Covid upon my travel arrangements soon disappeared as I whizzed through passport control and boarded the Eurotunnel.<\/p>

Cruising along a virtually empty E42, my mind wandered to thoughts of my evening meal. I conjectured as to what local beer might accompany it.<\/p>

A lorry was joining from a side road, so having checked my mirror, I duly moved over to give him room to complete his manoeuvre. In what seemed like seconds later, a car flashed past on the inside lane. Caught off guard by this sudden intrusion into my daydreams, I glanced in the rearview mirror.<\/p>

\"DeDe Muur van Geraardsbergen. Image: Rijden<\/em><\/p>

Approaching at alarming speed was a French police car with its blue lights ablaze. I've watched enough episodes of the Spiral to know that the Gendarmerie don't mess around. In a split second, I decided to stick to my lane as it too raced past at tremendous velocity.<\/p>

About half an hour later they passed in the opposite direction. Seemingly still locked in earnest pursuit.<\/p>

Electrics<\/h3>

I'd booked into a hotel some five kilometres north of Oudenaarde, famous for its links to the Tour of Flanders. A smart, clean hotel with lovely grounds. It lacked one important ingredient - a kettle. As their bar was closed during the day I faced coffee deprivation. Fortunately, the local Aldi was selling cheap kettles. Problem solved. Unfortunately, it promptly shorted the electrics.<\/p>

\"PerfectingPerfecting the confused Englishman abroad look. Image: Rijden.<\/em><\/p>

I hid the miscreant kettle and reported the problem. \"It's very odd\", said the helpful lady at reception. \"It's not happened before\". I just smiled innocently with my best 'confused Englishman abroad' expression.<\/p>

Lost in the Vlaamse Ardennen<\/h3>

I'd decided for my first day's ride to follow the route of the Omloop. As this is signposted it is, in theory, an easy task. However, given that there are variances between the men's and women's routes, some of the course is covered more than once and in opposite directions it's more difficult in practice.<\/p>

\"DespiteDespite the signs, I managed to get lost in the twists of the Flemish Ardennes. Image: Rijden<\/em><\/p>

The signs were also up for Kuurne Brussel Kurrne which covers some of the same roads. I was soon lost. Only later did I find a downloadable GPX file.<\/p>

I wanted to work out the best places to watch and to experience the cobbles and climbs for myself. It transpired that I'd chosen the official reconnaissance day. As cobbled sections like the Haaghoek and the climb of the Leberg are covered three times, professional and amateur photographers had stationed themselves here in anticipation.<\/p>

\"ProfessionalProfessional cycling photographers wait for real racers to appear. Image: Rijden<\/em><\/p>

The Haaghoek is quite a horrible stretch of cobbles as its first section is quite a steep descent before it rises up to a peak before continuing for nearly two kilometres. The temptation to apply the brakes and scrub off speed on the descent overpowered me. I bumped uncomfortably across the rough surface.<\/p>

\"AA real professional cruises up the Leberg. Image: Rijden<\/em><\/p>

Ahead, I could see photographers raising their lenses. Their look of disappointment was palpable as I got closer and they realised I definitely didn't fall into the elite category. Still, they nodded appreciably as I made slow progress up the stiffening incline. It was bitterly cold with a vigorous breeze and there were few cyclists on the course.<\/p>

\"*\"<\/p>

ABOUT RIJDEN<\/strong>: <\/span>Rijden grew from a passion for Flemish-style cycle racing. We're a UK independent that publishes this free online cycling magazine and creates sustainable gifts for cyclists. Read <\/em>more about Rijden<\/em><\/strong><\/a>.<\/em><\/p>

\"*\"Stopping to take pictures on the Leberg, a Jumbo Visma professional cruised up the climb so quickly that I was unable to discern who it was.<\/p>

\"TheThe Huisekoutermolen windmill. Image: Rijden<\/em><\/p>

Having got lost several times and covered the cobbles of the Haaghoek, Kerkgate and Holleweg I called it a day. My power was waning, my legs were complaining but additionally, I couldn't face the embarrassment of passing the old man repairing his fence yet again.<\/p>

The first time I approached he peered at me intently. Was I a professional? No, he concluded and he went back to hammering. By the third passage he'd established, I was lost and just muttered to himself.<\/p>

\"TheThe beauty of the Vlaamse Ardennen. Image: Rijden<\/em><\/p>

Despite the chill, the Vlaamse Ardennen (Flemish Ardennes) is a wonderful area to cycle. Apart from the odd very steep climb, the land is verdant and gently rolling. Pollarded trees and ditches mark the edges of this tranquil and unspoilt landscape.<\/p>

There are dozens and dozens of quiet narrow lanes to ride with very little traffic. Admittedly it's not Tuscany or the Alps but it has an understated natural beauty exemplified by a general lack of 'gentrification'.<\/p>

Koppenberg<\/h3>

For my second day, I decided to ride some of the most famous climbs of the Vlaamse Ardennen. Namely, the Paterberg, Koppenberg, Muur van Geraardsbergen and Bosberg. I like to think that I'm a bit of a romantic, although this is much disputed by my family.<\/p>

\"RomancingRomancing the cobblestones. Image: Rijden<\/em><\/p>

I'm a romantic for the folklore of the cobbled climbs. It seems I'm not alone. Although it was another cold, overcast day with occasional rain there was a steady procession of riders tackling them too.<\/p>

They slipped, struggled and suffered to conquer the Koppenberg. Its fierce gradient and the roughly hewn surface were made worse by mud at the steepest point. I managed to make it to the top by the simple expedient of riding as slowly as I could without actually coming to a stop. Through such preservation of effort, I had the reward of being among the few not to walk.<\/p>

F45 Cycle Highway<\/h3>

My ride from the top of the Koppenberg to the base of the Oude Kwaremont included several kilometres of the F45 Cycle Highway. Perfectly flat and as straight as an arrow, it cuts through the countryside.<\/p>

\"PartPart of the F45 Cycle Highway. Image: Rijden<\/em><\/p>

It's part of a 58-kilometre Gent to Kortrijk route. These 'fast-cycling routes' are intended to provide high-quality paths that connect major towns in the most direct manner. They are traffic-free and some sections even have street lights. As the <\/strong>Fietssnelwegen (Cycle Highways) website<\/strong><\/a> says, \"the fastest way from A to B is F!\"

Given the poor patchwork quilt of inadequate and underfunded cycling routes in the UK, we can only look on and weep.<\/p>

Oude Kwaremont<\/h3>

Completing my climbs at the Oude Kwaremont where preparations were already underway for April's Ronde van Vlaanderen I circled back to the main square.<\/p>

\"CafeCafe In De Zon. Image: Rijden<\/p>

The cafe In De Zon provided a break from my labours and hospitable relief from the chilling wind. For a dank Friday, it was busy with cyclists and non-cyclists alike. I could only imagine what it would be like when the Tour of Flanders was in town and passions and beer would flow.<\/p>

Omploop Het Nieuwsblad<\/h3>

By race day, I'd planned to watch Omloop Het Nieuwsblad on the cobble sections of the Haaghoek, Holleweg and Kerkgate. I arrived in plenty of time at the Haaghoek to find it virtually deserted.<\/p>

Slowly, other spectators started to arrive. Streams of amateur cyclists passed through. And despite the fact that the road was supposed to be closed, many private cars too. Occasional team and official cars raced through. Ironically, the cars marked 'SAFETY' were amongst the fastest.<\/p>

\"WEDSTRIJD!WEDSTRIJD! Image: Rijden<\/em><\/p>

More spectators appeared and riders continued to ride through the increasing throng. A huge convoy of cars and motorbikes roared past. And then a hush descended. A beautiful moment of stillness broken only by the sound of early spring songbirds.<\/p>

For a few minutes, it was as if the race had been forgotten or had become lost. Suddenly more motorbikes flashed through followed by oversized BMWs and finally the lead car with its familiar exclamation mark emblem.<\/p>

\"TheThe magnificent seven. Image: Rijden<\/em><\/p>

The leading group of seven juddered across the cobbles. As inevitable as there will be an early break, it's inevitable they will be caught. It's just a question of when. Their faces displayed commitment and resolve as they doggedly stuck to their task. As the bunch passed through some minutes later they gave the impression of being on a club run. In reality, they were maintaining a ferocious pace that would leave most amateurs struggling in their wake.<\/p>

\"RidersA fast-paced club run. Image: Rijden<\/em><\/p>

As I was trying to manoeuvre myself into a better position to capture some pictures of the bunch, I found myself shoved in the back. I ignored the offender and carried on snapping away.<\/p>

After the bunch had passed through, my new acquaintance started muttering. My Flemish is poor but I can recognise unhappy grunts in any language. I turned and, in my best 'Received Pronunciation', I explained that I don't speak Flemish.<\/p>

\"CameraMy new friend. Image: Rijden<\/em><\/p>

\"You stood up in front of the camera!\" I realised at this point the gentleman was part of a camera crew. I tried to explain that I wasn't even aware that he was there and would obviously have kept out of the way had I known. He had the sort of face that was never going to be satisfied. I'm not sure saying \"You only had to say alstublieft\" really helped the situation.<\/p>

As he and his crew scurried away so did everyone else. As soon as the final car of the race convoy passed through, the road was open and the majority of spectators just vanished like snow on a sunlit morning. Not only did they disappear but they all appeared to head in different directions. I cycled off towards the Holleweg where break's lead had diminished but was still solid.<\/p>

\"Riders Holleweg. Image: Rijden<\/em><\/p>

For my final rendezvous, I'd chosen the Kerkgate. A gently rising cobbled stretch that passes through the village of Mater. It has a handily placed bar opposite the church. The Caf\u00e9 Feestzaal De Witte Hoeve which literally translates as the Cafe Party Room White Farm.<\/p>

As the race convoy drew closer the bar grew busier with customers and those wishing to watch the race live on the two TVs. With the riders near, I made my way out into the street. The scenario of the race had not changed significantly but the tempo had.<\/p>

The break still maintained an advantage over the bunch but whereas before the pace looked easy now the strain was clear to see. Riders dangled off the back of the break. The effort and tiredness etched on their faces. Valour alone would not be enough to stave off the pursuing pack.<\/p>

\"RidersKerkgate. Image: Rijden<\/em><\/p>

Behind, the bunch had begun to disintegrate under the pressure. Gaps appeared as exhausted riders could no longer hold their place. Dropped riders were intermingled with team and officials' cars.<\/p>

Once again as soon as the last official passed through the spectators vanished. Heading off on their bikes or cars or simply popping back inside their homes. Locals with errands to perform took the opportunity to head off before the women's race came through in an hour.<\/p>

I wandered back to the Caf\u00e9 Feestzaal De Witte Hoeve for refreshments. The whole world appeared to have had the same idea. Buying beers and keeping a beady eye on the TV.<\/p>

\"OmloopOmloop women's race. Image: Rijden<\/em><\/p>

I found a quiet spot in the weak spring sunshine and sheltered against a wall from the fresh breeze. After having spent the last few hours unable to achieve any internet via my mobile signal I found a nearby house with an open internet. I loaded up GCN to watch the men's race as I waited for the women.<\/p>

As the women drew closer a few people emerged from their houses to watch it pass but it was eerily quiet compared to earlier. The majority of locals were inside their homes watching the men's battle on TV or had moved on elsewhere.<\/p>

Quietly and with little fuss, the women's race passed through.<\/p>

Tips for Spectating<\/h3>

If you've not ventured over to Belgium before to watch any of the classic races, I've compiled a few tips.<\/p>

Firstly, it's now become much easier to visit Belgium because the Covid restrictions have been eased. No PCR tests are required and shortly all additional requirements such as Passenger Locator Forms should have been dropped. Expect to show your Covid passport before you can board your train or ferry.<\/p>

In theory, in Belgian cafes and restaurants, you're required to provide proof of your vaccination status via the NHS App. Only one establishment demanded such proof. The majority just shook their heads when I offered.<\/p>

\"TheThe top of the Koppenberg. Image: Rijden<\/em><\/p>

Book early to get a better deal if travelling by Eurotunnel. Persuade your friends to go with you to spread the cost. Accommodation prices vary a lot. Booking.com is a good start and includes many rural B&Bs which I usually find are the best bet. They typically provide excellent value and hearty breakfasts. Airbnb is another useful resource, especially if you're planning to stay for longer.<\/p>

It's rare that lodgings don't accommodate bikes or understand the needs of cyclists.<\/p>

The best way to spectate is by bike. You won't have the hassle of finding somewhere to park which can be quite an issue at popular spots.<\/p>

Many of the courses like Het Nieuwsblad cover quite a small geographic area so it's relatively easy to get from one spot to the next and stay ahead of the bunch. You'll often see cars stuck in traffic jams as they compete with team cars trying to do the same.<\/p>

\"BikeBike beats car for spectating. Image: Rijden<\/em><\/p>

I would recommend quality over quantity. Don't be overly ambitious in how many times you try to see the race. The reality is that until the end of the course, you'll probably observe a similar scene. A small break was followed a few minutes later by a compact bunch. You'll see much more on TV which you can watch later, or find a bar with a TV to watch the race and soak up the beers and atmosphere.<\/p>

\"Dropped Dropped riders making their way home. Image: Rijden<\/em><\/p>

Enjoy the atmosphere as it builds with the arrival of spectators. Make some new friends. You'll find the majority of Flandrians speak excellent English and are generally better informed than many of the mainstream cycling news websites. You might even get some local tips for beers or restaurants to try.<\/p>

Races such as the Tour de France often close the roads for hours before and after. This is not the case in Flanders. It's amazing how late and how soon after they close the roads. Towards the end of the race, you'll often find dropped riders riding along with the normal traffic once the roads are opened.<\/p>

Photography<\/h3>

If you're hoping to take pictures you'll find you have to be imaginative so that your shots aren't spoilt by errant spectators and motorbikes. The latter are often positioned close to the front of the bunch making head-on shots difficult. As spectators tend to arrive quite late, the nice clear view you had may suddenly become obscured.<\/p>

\"GettingGetting a clear shot can be trying. Image: Rijden<\/em><\/p>

It's worth thinking about a less popular spot if you're planning to take photographs. Fans will congregate on the marked climbs and cobbled sections. There are always other locations on the course, for example on a climb after a bend, where the bunch will be more spread out. You can learn a lot just by observing professional photographers taking up positions by the side of the road.<\/p>

Culture<\/h3>

Don't neglect the cultural aspects of your stay. Belgium has an unfair reputation for its cuisine. I've never had a bad meal in a Belgian restaurant and it's not all just steak and frites.<\/p>

\"TheThe excellent Martiko in the heart of Oudenaarde. Image: Rijden<\/em><\/p>

I visited Martiko just off the main square in Oudenaarde. I chose the delicious Lamsballekes (lamb meatballs), washed down with an Adriaen Brouwer Oaked from the local Roman brewery. The latter was a real find. A strong dark beer that uses organic ingredients and has a unique but enjoyable taste.<\/p>

\"*\"READ MORE<\/strong>: Get all of <\/em>Rijden\u2019s cobbles and classics articles<\/em><\/strong><\/a>. All our articles are free to read.<\/em><\/p>

\"Read<\/u><\/a>At the restaurant In De Kroon (In the Crown) in the small picturesque hamlet of Mullem, I dined on pork slowly cooked in St Bernardus 8. I'm not overly keen on using alcohol in food because often the taste is completely lost. But not on this occasion. De Kroon is popular with local families and I could see why. I choose the Dutch Trappist beer Zundert as an accompaniment.<\/p>

\"Simple Simple but delightful: In De Kroon. Image: Rijden<\/em><\/p>

As well as the extraordinary range of beers and perhaps surprisingly excellent cuisine, Flanders has some beautiful medieval architecture. There are cycle racing museums in Oudenaarde and Roeselare. If you are so inclined, Flanders is home to some of Europe's finest paintings.<\/p>

Tim Costello, 25 Feb 2022.<\/em><\/p>

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